* 2023 Openbook Award A thorough analysis of a thoroughly Taiwanese street food made from nearly every cut of pork imaginable, this is the ultimate foodie guidebook: an exquisitely detailed map of a distinctive culinary culture.

Oo-pe̍h-tshiat is a dish found throughout Taiwan, beloved of the masses. Though this plate of assorted cuts of pork might at first appear a crude and slapdash affair, its humble appearance belies the expertise required in its preparation. It is a culinary delight enjoyed at all times of day, and which always bears the unique touch of the chef who prepares it. Beginning with the pigs, the animals that supply the basic elements of oo-pe̍h-tshiat, this book expands into a foodie guidebook and cultural history of a nation’s signature dish.

Organized into three parts, the book begins with the outer meats of the pig, detailing preparation methods for everything from head meat to tail tip, complete with a tantalizing list of recommended food stalls from across Taiwan. Even more mouth-watering are the descriptions of the resulting dishes, including “pork snowflake”, a preparation of the meat of the gums that will have readers longing for a nibble of its delightfully chewy texture. The second part focuses on oo-pe̍h-tshiat cuts prepared from internal organs, whose poetic names will have curious readers guessing at exactly what part of the pig has been employed in its creation. Emphasizing freshness and simple cooking that accents the natural flavor and appearance of the basic ingredients, oo-pe̍h-tshiat prepared from organ meats are a direct representation of the chef’s dedication and skill. The final section turns to the men and women whose knowledge is essential to the creation of oo-pe̍h-tshiat. From the person who selects the pigs for slaughter, to the street-stall chef who cooks the meats, an entire food culture is revealed through unacknowledged but loyal inheritors of this culinary tradition.

Author Ema Fu, a media and publishing professional with decades of experience, gathered stories from numerous interviews to assemble this behind-the-scenes look at the complexities that go into the making of a humble dish. Spiced with personal anecdotes and a pinch of homesickness, Fu has created a foodie guidebook that doubles as a moving cultural documentary, using oo-pe̍h-tshiat as a window on the honest, hard-working people of Taiwan. Food lovers and the culturally curious alike will find plenty to tempt their reading tastes in this unique book on one of Taiwan’s most ubiquitous culinary delights.